Cosmetic formulation

We explore how active ingredients and formula stability are essential to creating safe skin-care products.

17/10/2025
9:51 am

Cosmetic formulation: science and technology for skin care and protection.

Cosmetic formulation is not only a matter of beauty. It is science too. Behind every cream and soap is a complex process that combines active ingredients, emulsions, and advanced technologies to protect and improve the health and appearance of the skin. In this article, we analyse the future of personalised cosmetics and the advances that allow products to be tailored to the specific needs of each skin type.

We may not be aware of it, but behind every cream, serum, or gel we apply to our skin, there is a complex formulation that seeks efficacy, safety, and stability. Let’s explore how cosmetic formulation is carried out from a scientific view, delving into some fundamental processes and principles.

The science, technology, and skin biointeraction.

A cosmetic formulation is a mixture of ingredients designed to beautify, cleanse, or modify the appearance of the skin without altering its natural structure and functions. Depending on the type of product (skin, hair, makeup, etc.), it is essential to understand its composition and current regulations to ensure that products are safe and comply with legislation.

Cosmetic formulation is an interdisciplinary speciality that combines chemistry, biology, dermatology, and pharmaceutical technology to design products intended for the care, protection, and beautification of the skin and/or its appendages.

Unlike pharmaceutical products, cosmetics do not aim to modify deep physiological functions, but they do interact with the skin barrier, modulating its physical-chemical and aesthetic state.

According to Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009 of the European Parliament, a cosmetic product is defined as any substance or mixture intended to be placed in contact with the external parts of the human body for cleaning, perfuming, modifying its appearance, protecting it, or keeping it in good condition.

Scientific principles of formulation.

Colloidal system and phases.
Most cosmetic formulations are structured in dispersed systems, such as emulsions (O/W or W/O), suspensions, or polymeric gels. The formulator’s goal is to achieve thermodynamic and kinetic stability through the appropriate emulsifiers, stabilisers, and preservatives.

Example: In an O/W emulsion, phase equilibrium is achieved by adjusting the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB) index. The optimal HLB of surfactants determines the ability to form a stable interface between the oil and water phases.

Skin biointeraction.
The skin, with its lipid-protein corneum stratum, acts as a semipermeable barrier. Cosmetic interaction is governed by Fick’s diffusion phenomena and molecular affinity. Cosmetic active ingredients can act:
- - On the surface (hydration, occlusion, colouring).
  - In superficial epidermal layers (antioxidants, depigmenting agents).
  - In hair follicles or sebaceous glands (sebum regulators, anti-inflammatories).

Cosmetic nanotechnology, through systems such as nanoliposomes, niosomes, and nanoemulsions, has improved the penetration and bioavailability of active ingredients in the skin without compromising skin safety.

Essential components.

Type of Ingredient	Main Function	Examples
Oil phase	Emollience, texture, occlusion	Esters, silicones, triglycerides
Water phase	Vehicle, hydration	Purified water, hydrolates
Emulsifiers	Phase stabilization	Polysorbates, lecithins, PEG
Preservatives	Microbiological protection	Phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate
Cosmetic actives	Functional efficacy	Niacinamide, hyaluronic acid
Sensory correctors	User experience	Fragrances, colourants, powders

Evaluation and testing.

Cosmetic formulation is not limited to laboratory development; it requires physical-chemical, microbiological, and dermatological testing. Among the most common are:
- - Accelerated stability (40°C/75% RH, 3 months): predicts long-term stability.
  - Challenge test: effectiveness of the preservative system against standard microbial strains (ISO 11930).
  - Patch test and HRIPT: assess irritant or sensitising potential.
  - Biometric instrumentation (corneometry, TEWL, colourimetry): quantifies cosmetic effects.

Innovation and sustainability.

The current trend in the cosmetics industry prioritises:
- - Clean Beauty formulation (minimisation of controversial synthetic additives).
  - Circular economy and biodegradable packaging.
  - Use of natural biopolymers (chitin, microfibrillated cellulose, alginates).
  - Biotechnological fermentation to obtain functionally active ingredients (peptides, organic acids, post-biotics).

These strategies integrate the principles of Green Chemistry and sustainable cosmetology, consolidating an ethical and ecologically responsible scientific paradigm.

Conclusion.

Cosmetic formulation should be considered a high-precision applied science, based on the integration of physicochemical, biological, and technological knowledge.
Nanostructured systems represent a versatile and effective platform for the release of cosmetic active ingredients, provided that their skin safety is guaranteed.
The trend toward sustainable and biotechnological formulations reflects an ethical and environmentally conscious evolution of the cosmetic sector.
It is imperative to consolidate standardised evaluation and regulation protocols to ensure safety, efficacy, and scientific transparency in cosmetic development.

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council on Cosmetic Products.

Barel, A. O., Paye, M., & Maibach, H. I. (2014). Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology. CRC Press.

Tadros, T. F. (2017). Emulsion Formation and Stability. Wiley-VCH.

Draelos, Z. D. (2021). Cosmetic Dermatology: Products and Procedures. Wiley-Blackwell.

Anastas, P. T., & Warner, J. C. (1998). Green Chemistry: Theory and Practice. Oxford University Press.

Lachman, L., Lieberman, H. A., & Kanig, J. L. (2013). The Theory and Practice of Industrial Pharmacy.

OECD Test Guideline 439 (2019): In Vitro Skin Irritation: Reconstructed Human Epidermis Test Method.

In PRODERPHARMACARE^®, we base our work and know-how on modern cosmetic formulation, via scientific rigour, technological innovation, and environmental sustainability. Always under the strict regulatory framework in force. For this reason, we position ourselves as a benchmark in sustainable cosmetics, with a commitment to environmental protection and human health, as well as continuous development in the dermocosmetic and professional skin protection sectors.